Stitch-down shoe.



W. J. KELLY.

STITCH DOWN SHOE.

APPLICATION FILED DEC. 2. 1912.

1,243,42L V Patented 001;. 16, Ism.

W I TNESSES N VEN TOR WILLIAM J. KELLY, F READING, PENNSYLVANIA,ASSIGNOR 0F ONE-THIRD T0 HARRY I. BERNHARD, 0F BROOKLYN, NEW YORK.

STITCH-Down SHOE.

lt,2d3,421.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Got. 16, 1917..

Application led December 2, 1912. Serial o. 734,432.

' Reading, county of Berks, and State of Pennsylvania, have invented acertain new and useful Stitch-Down Shoe, of which the followingisa-specifioation.

This invention is an article of foot wear of that kind known to the artas a stitch down shoe, boot or the like, said invention being asubstantial departure from prior devices of this character for thereason that it is capable of being repaired by ordinary cobblers whenthe outer sole becomes worn, which repair operation is eiiected easilyand rapidly.

Accordingly, the object of this invention is to retain the upper inpermanent relation to the insole and to enable the outer sole to bereplaced during the operation of repairing the shoe. v

With these and other ends in view, the stitch down shoe of my inventionembodies a slip sole positioned intermediate the i11- sole and theoutersole, tol which slip sole the upper is attached, preferably by thestaples employed ordinarily in stitch down shoes.

The operations involved-in producing the shoe are as follows The upperand its lining are lasted in such manner that the edges of the liningare drawn around and connected or attached4 to the ordinary insole, theedges of the upper being bent or folded outwardly; the slip sole is thenplaced in position over the insole, the outwardly turned edges of theupper lapping the edge portion of the slip sole, and then the upper isattached to the insole by wires, staples or other fastening means, itbeing preferred to clench the wires or staples against the outer face ofthe slip sole; the outer sole is now placed against the slip sole andthe welt is positioned against the outwardly turned edge of the upper soas to conceal the fastenings by which the upper is attached to the slipsole, whereupon the shoe is sewed, the stitches passing through thewelt', upper, slip sole and outer solein order to fasten the partssecurely together.

It will be noted that the lining is attached to the insoleindependentlyrof the attachment of the upper to the slip sole, and,further, that said upper is attached to the slip sole independently ofthe attachment of the welt andouter sole to the upper. Accordingly, theouter sole when worn may be removed without in any manner disturbing theattachment of the upper to the slip sole so that the upper will retainits shape during the operation of repairing thesole by replacing theouter sole. Y.

Other features of the invention, and the advantages thereof, will appearfrom the following detailed description.

In the accompanying drawings, I have illustrated one practicalembodiment of the invention, but the construction shown therein is to beunderstood as illustrative, only, and not as delining the limits of theinvention.

Figure l is a side elevation illustrating the first step in theoperation of lasting the upper..

Figs. 2, 3 and 4 are cross sections illustrating the successive stepsinvolved in the operation of. making the stitch down shoe in accordancewith this invention.

In carrying out the invention,l an insole A is placed upon a. last B,aiiter which an upper C with an attaching lining D are lasted. Insole Ais of the usual or any preferred form, and the upper lining D is drawntightly around the last so that the edge a? of said lining will overlapthe upper face of the insole, as in Fig. 2. A. filling of suitablematerial, as E, is now placed upon the insole, preferably covering theedges d of the lining, said lling leveling the surface kof the shoe atthis stage of its manvufacture.

A slip sole F is now positioned upon the insole and filling E, the edgesof the slip sole extending beyond the respective sides of the last, andsaid slip sole extending for a suitable distance beyond the toe and overthe shank. The upper C is now lasted around the lining and the last, andsaid upper and slip sole are attached directly together by fastenings G,said fastenings being positioned close to or over the edge of the lastin a manner :for the respective-edges of the upper to underlap therespective edges of the slip sole, said edges of the upper being turnedoutward at c. able astenings G may be employed or the attachment of theupper and the sli sole directly together within the outward y eX-tending edgescof said upper; in a practical embodiment of the inventionthe fastenings An suit- G are in the form of metal staples which passthrough the upper and the slip sole so that 'the ends of the stapleswill be clenched against the upper surface of the slip sole.

An outer sole H is now placed upon the slip sole and a welt l ispositioned against the outwardly extending -edges c of the upper, afterwhich the welt and outer sole are fastened to the upper and the slipsole by a fastening which is independent of the fastening G. In'practically carrying out the invention the welt and the outer sole aresewed to edge c of the upper and the edge of the slip sole, the stitchesof the sewed seam being indicated at J in Fig. a;

These stitches pass through the welt, the

Vedges 'c of the upper, slip sole F, and outer sole l-l, whereby all theparts are firmly secured together. The outer sole covers theclenched'ends of the staples G which operate to attach the slip sole andthe upper, whereas welt l is applied to the upper in a manner to imparta desirable finish thereto, the primary purpose of the welt being toconceal the stitch down fastenings G.

It will be observed that lining D is lasted to the insole independentlyof the attachment of the upper to the slip sole, and, further,that-thefastenings G which unite the slip sole to the upper are independent ofand positioned within the fastenings J by which the outer sole and theWelt Aare attached to the outwardly turned edges of the upper. When theouter sole becomes worn it can be ripped off without aeeting theattachment et the upper to the slip sole, which slip sole acts to retainthe upper in proper shape during the operation' of repltcing the wornouter sole by a fresh outer so e.

The slip sole adds slightly to the cost of production but" it possessesthe important advantages of adding strength to the shoe and facilitatingthe operation of repairing the shoe, infwhich respects the shoe of thepresent invention marks a material advance in the art over prior stitchdown shoes with whichl am familiar.

lVhile have shown and described the upper as fprovided with a lining,which lining is lasted to the insole separately from the attachment ofthe upper to the slip sole, it will be evident that the lining may bedispensed with and the upper lasted directly to the slip sole, theinsole being used or omitted as may be found expedient.

Having thus fully described the invention,

insane?.

l. A stitch 'down shoe embodying an insole, an upper the marginalportions of which are extended outwardly with respect to the insole, anupper-lining lasted around the edge of said insole for the margins ofsaid upper lining to extend inwardly and into lapping engagement withsaid insole, a slip sole the width'of which exceeds that of the insole,the marginal portions of said slip sole being extended beyond thelapping contact between the upper-lining and the insole, staplespositioned in the angle formed between the upper and the out turnedmargins thereof, saidystaples attachin the slip sole directly to theupper indepen ently of thecontact of the lining with the insole, and theends of said staples being clenched against the outer face of said slipsole, an outer vsole covering the slip sole and the clenched ends of thestaples, and 'means separate from said staples for fastening the outersole to the marginal portions of the yupper and the slip sole.

2. A stitch down shoe embodying an insole, an upper the marginalportions of which are extended outwardlyy with respect to the insole, anupper-lining lasted around the edge of said insole for the margins ofsaid upper lining to extend inwardly into lapping engagement with saidinsole, a slip sole the width of which exceeds that of the insole, themarginal portions of said slip sole being extended beyond the lappingengagement between the upper lining and the insole, staples forattaching the slip sole to the upper at the angle formed between saidupper andthe out-turned marginal portions thereof, said staplesoperating to directly fasten the upper and slip sole to each otherindependently of the engagement between the insole and the upper lining,an outer sole separate from the slip sole and covering the staples, awelt in Contact with the out-turned marginal portions of the upper, anda seam separate from the staples for attaching the welt and the outersole to the marginal portions of the upper and the slip sole.

ln testimony whereof l have signed my name to this specification in thepresence of `two subscribing witnesses.

. l VILLAM J. KELLY.

Witnesses:

CATHERINE Marne, donn l?. Kenna.

